I love it when my product is a solution for so many problems. Look in the upper right margin of this forum for TAVY "Thin-Skin", then go to www.tavytools.com for sources near you. Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

Here is what I believe you have. Tile from a company that makes a sheen finish for walls and a matching rough mat finish for floors and whoever purchased the tiles unkowingly picked boxes from two different piles. On a scale of 1 thru 10, I would give this answer a 9.95     You are welcome Joyce, Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

Dragging a chain (not a very heavy one) is one way, but this reminds me of 10,000 BC, however you can cover a larger area in less time. Bouncing a golf ball is another. The heel of a metal table knife or tapping with a coin also works.  

The point is that if a tile is not bonded properly to the substrate it will "echo" a sound denoting a hollow tile, and a hollow tile can crack if a hard object falls on it. A hollow sound is also an indication of poor workmanship. Grout can also fail if the tile becomes loose because of an improper bond. The proper sound is a sound you would get by tapping on a cement slab or a sidewalk, and a hollow sound is what you would get when tapping on a tile that is just lying loose on a floor without any mortar or adhesive. It also sounds terrible under leather or "high heels". Once you hear it, you will never forget it, nor would you want it. Armen Tavy

Next time it would be wise to pick a home built by a better builder. The simple solution here is to lay you floor on a diagonal to minimize the out of square issue. You would still have to balance the layout  by splitting the difference, and using the most obvious focal point/s of the room as a guide. Bad tiling is not the same as "bad" layout planning. Armen Tavy

It is not a stupid question but an easy one. Thin-Set Mortar has a limited pot life once mixed. The chemical action that takes place cannot be stopped once it is started. It can be hastened with hot weather and lengthened in cool weather, other than that the maximum usable pot life is about + -30 minutes taking in the temperature variables mentioned. No one has said you have to use an electric mixer (at the proper speed of + - 300 RPM), it is just easier and more efficient. If you do not mind mixing for several minutes, then "slaking" for 10, then re-mixing again for another minute or so, the chore could be considered a good exercise.I cannot imagine anyone, even Captain Marvel" mixing 50 lbs at one time y hand and getting a properly blended mix. Armen Tavy

Rarely does this happen when two layers of wood underlayment totaling 1 1/8" minimum with staggared joints are the substrate. The floor joists should be no less than 2 x 10" and not be spaced more than 16" on center. Excessive deflection (more than 1 inches in 30 lineal ft and 1/2" in 15 ft) can also "snap" tiles.

Thin-Set Mortar was designed to be used over plywood where the "top skin" is "Doug Fir". Unfortunately most plywood is constructed of "Yellow Pine" (graded "BC")  today, (more plentiful and less costly) and the "natural turps and resins" in the Yellow Pine plywood eventually repels Thin-Set" Mortars. I speak from personal experience and "Chemists" from the University of Connecticut gave me this information. "OSB" has similar issues which my product resolves.

 The solution is to use a product like my TAVY "Thin-Skin" ceramic tile underlayment which I designed to solve problems like this when tiling over any questionable substrates. It also carries a 15 year warranty. As far as I am concerned, tiling over most surfaces today, including concrete, all have "bond breaking" issues, so why gamble? Armen Tavy

There are many who believe this is true, including "yours truly". Armen Tavy

I can't help you until you tell me the Length, Width, and Thickness of the Marble, and what the wall is. It would also help if you have some idea what "glue" was used to fasten it. There has to be some damge to something and it looks like you prefer that it be the wall. It is up to you how careful you are, after I tell you what to do to remove it. Armen Tavy

YES, and I have answered this question many times, so please go to "Search by ID" (in-between the two Orange lines above"). You will have to enter each of the following posts individually to read them one at a time or enter Tile over Tile in the Search box to the Left, in which case it will bring up my post replies in chronological order on one page. Individually, you would enter: # 12364, 12353, 11784, 11624, 11438. Need more help, write again. Armen Tavy

It is always helpful to know precisely what climate you live in 1, 2, 3, or 4 season, etc.

Old glue is a Bond Breaker for Cementitious Thin-Set Mortars and a complete removal and "scarification" is required to create a "tile-able surface".  The mortars that fare the best in outdoor applications, especially In 4 season or wintery (brrrrrrrrr) climsates are mortars that are mixed with their own "Liquid Latex Additives". Any cementitous grout will do, and it is always prudent to seal them. Epoxy grouts are the only grouts that do not need sealing, but they need a better understanding of their application. "Instructions must be followed to the "T".

It is always prudent to use a 4" wallpaper scrapping tool to remove the bulk or the rough surface of the glue. There are not many (thin) tile underlayments that are guaranteed to work over your "old glue" residue and not raise the tile height any more than a "Sliver". I am proud to say that I developed my own product for scenarios just like yours. It does not add enough additional weight or height (1/32") to measure, and it completely neutralizes the "contaminated" substrate for tiling. It is called: TAVY "Thin-Skin", you can see an add for it in the upper right margin of this forum. Go to: www.tavytools.com for sources. Need more help, I am always here.  Armen Tavy

They can't be re-glazed because your countertop can't be put in a "kiln". This is one of those jobs that is not a DIY project. It requires a specialist who is trained and has the equipment  necessary for the task. There are "bathtub refinishing" companies everywhere and some will do countertops as well. Of course, the wear surfaces won't be as good as the original, but you can get rid of the pink and be happy for a while. You can start with this company www.miraclemethod.com but check others as well. ASK for job references, and call them. Armen Tavy

It's satisfying to know that my efforts help others.

Technically speaking, ceramic tile radiant heating systems are not meant to heat a room. The tile flooring thermostat controls the heat at an average of 85 degrees. If a full floor heating system was jacked up to the maximum, it would not be efficient "Energy Wise." Since it is not meant to heat the air in a room, then it is very practical to select the/your ideal locations for "footsie" comfort. However, once locations are picked "we" tend to extend them a "little bit further"; it is the "American Way".

When you watch DIY Channels and see them installing the floor tile heating panels in the entire room, this is "wonderful" but again, not practical; especially if the entire room is controlled by a single thermostat. Hypothetically speaking, "On cold winter day, do you set your homes heating thermostat at 85 degrees? I think not, because the heat would be unbearable. Imagine your homes heating system is set at 76 degrees, on a cold day, and the floor in the bathroom is set at 85 degrees, the combined heat would make the room feel like a "Sauna". Select areas are the way to go. Floor heating systems do not heat quickly, like a "bread toaster", the temperature increases gradually because it has to heat the Thin-Set Mortar and the Tile. Once heated, the "mass" cools at a slower rate as well.

Here is the smart way to decide. Besides yourself, It takes one more person who should observe where you walk and stand, (and sit) in your bathroom. You and he/she would then outline each area with "Blue Painters Tape". After using the room for several days, see if you wander from those areas and consider adding those sections to your original outline. Pretty simple and efficient. Armen Tavy

I do get many unusual requests for information, and I will add this one to the list. It is highly irregular for this to happen on a couple of tiles in an otherwise good installation. Vinegar works as a cleaning agent in many cases but it has not "cut the mustard" here. Try scrubbing the area with (Comet) cleanser with a white or green scrub pad and rinse well. Cleanser and other mild abrasives should not hurt ceramic tile, or  this residue may be "Grout" haze, from day one, that is attracting more "dirt" making it more obvious every day. Grout haze removers are available in most tile departments and it is the only product that will work, and each day you wait it will be harder to remove.  Armen Tavy

If you are grouting in color, find an "Aqua Mix" retailer in your area, because they have a flexible grout cauk in the popular colors. If you are going White", "Poly-Seam Seal" or "Dap" is the way to go in this joint. Check periodically to maintain a good seal, as tubs "CAN" move. Caulk the joint when doing other prep work and then caulk again after tiling and before grout. Armen Tavy

You could use a self-leveling "Portland Cement" available at most tile retailers (tape off all areas where the cement might seep into and “disappear”) or sweep and vacuum the powder and skim coat the entire floor with a name brand "Modified" thin-set mortar. Try to get the floor as flat as possible. After the floor dries for an hour or more, any small lumps and ridges of thin-set should be easy to flatten by dragging the smooth edge of a trowel towards you. A tile rubbing stone can be used to sand high spots as well. Sweep, vacuum, set tile, and pat yourself on the back, providing you use at least a 1/4" x 3/8" x 1/4" or a 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" trowel to spread your tile setting mortar. These large format tiles "MUST" be lightly skim coated before setting into the mortar.

Check your floor for "level in all directions before you start. Always begin in the highest location and bring the lower sections "up", but never more than a 1/4”. Mortar should be spread left to right in neat rows so the tiles can be "pressed in", moved forward, and then pulled back into place. This procedure collapses the high lines of mortar into the low "trenches". Air is the Enemy" unless you are breathing it, or it is in your "Life Jacket", it does not belong under tiles in the mortar lines. Briskly tap each tile into place with a rubber mallet or "pound" with your grout float before proceeding to the next tile. Lift the second tile you set with a screw driver, etc. to inspect the “transference" of mortar coverage to the back of the tiles from the floor. Look for a Minimum of 85%. A 3/8" mortar bed should compress to + 1/8" and a 1/2" to + 1/4". Large format tiles "MUST" be as flat and level as possible, because high tiles (Toe Kickers/Lippage) are very obvious, if present. If you use my TAVY "TILE PUCK" to check and correct (very probable) "Lippage", you can end up with a perfectly flat floor. It is by far the best tool you can find for this job. If you have purchased good uniform sized tiles, I recommend my 1/8” TAVY Tile Spacers to give you the best-looking small grout joint for these large format tiles. Armen Tavy

An installation like this would be a challenge for an experienced tile setter. Portland Cement "Modified" Thin-Set Mortars are impervious to heat once cured. Although Wire Lath will raise the surface an extra 1/4 inch, it would assure you a permanent installation and "rewards" for your efforts. After you apply the Lath, coat the wire with enough Thin-Set until you have created a flat surface to tile on. It may take you several applications rather than trying it in one. Brushing a thin coating of thin-set to the backs of the tiles, just before setting, is also "prudent". Armen Tavy

It is7:45 PM Florida Time, on 10/23/09. I just got off the phone with my friend Dave Glen who is a Tec Support Expert with "Tile Guard" aka "Homax Products" in Washington. I put your question to Dave and he suggested you do the following. Go to any Lowe's, ACE Hardware as well, and look for Tile Guard's Extra Strength Spray on Cleaner. After spraying the floor, wait about 5 minutes and agitate the surface of the tiles with a scrub brush and rinse. If this does not work to your satisfaction, buy "Tile Guard" "Tile and Grout Coating". Take off the top of the container, spread the liquid over the tiles and let it soak into the grout. Wait a bit and use a dry rag to wipe the coating off the tiles. The coating should soak into the grout and wipe off the tiles, much like you wanted to do with epoxy. If this fails to satisfy you, here are some other tips. "TSP" (Tri Sodium Phosphate Crystals); Tri-Kleen; Phosphoric Acid Crystals; or go to: ldgsupply.com and refreshyourhome.com for Oxygen Bleaches. A portable Steam Generator works wonders as well. Household bleaches are recommended by some, full strength (watch your eyes, cloths and nose or dilute 3/4 cup  Chlorine Bleach to 3 cups water, spray, let it sit 10 minutes, scrub briskly and rinse. always Watch your eyes, clothing and rugs when using bleaches and ventilate the room. This should take care of your weekend. Armen Tavy

No tile that is tapped on should have a "click" or "hollow sound". Broken grout is usually caused by loose tiles or improper underlayment preperation. Loose tiles can also happen many months after an installation if the wrong size trowel was used to install the tiles. If you decide to remove a tile, place close attention to the amount of mortar on the backs of the tiles. There should be evidense of at least 80% coverage. If you see any less or the tile mortar did not stick/bond to the floor or the backs of the tiles, then the mortar may have been improperly mixed or past its experation date. All thin-set mortars have a 1 year shelf life on a store shelf and must be used within close proximity of the experation date. You can't prove the latter now because you don't have any bags of mortar that were used, but if the mortar did not stick to either surface, or the installer used a 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" trowel to try and install the tiles, you have a legitimate claim. Not clear enough, write again. Armen Tavy

The post before yours (12367) had a complaint about the possibility of scrubbing with a steam cleaner and damaging ceramic tile. In their case I felt that there was a film left on the tiles, in your case, there is no logical reason for the fault being in your cleaning method. These couple of tiles must have had an existing problem. I hate to say this but, be very careful of "Fraud". There may have been a problem that was "covered up" and they hired you to clean the floor knowing you would remove the cover-up. That is the only logical explanation. If not, there is still no logic, because ceramic tile has a very hard baked on glaze that is impervious to any normal or heavy duty cleaning that you did or could do. I certainly don't feel that you are responsible, if you were, we would all be in trouble. If you have insurance, you might ask for an insurance adjuster to look at it. But I doubt that they would find any liability on your part, but they may help you pasify your customer .  Armen Tavy

I cannot imagine steam hurting 18" ceramic tiles. It is possible that you let a water film dry on the tiles. Purchase a liquid tile cleaner, dilute as required, and wash a  4' x 5', (20 sq ft) section of the floor with a sponge as you would after grouting. Uses long single strokes with each clean edge of your "hydra sponge". As soon as you are done with that small section, dry the floor with a turkish towel. If the floor still feels strange, try useing a "grout haze remover" (Aqua Mix or Tile Guard, etc), if neither solves the problem, write again. If it works, let us know that as well.  Armen Tavy

The odds are that this hood is factory painted "black". You can tile over paint with most Type I Ceramic Tile Mastics as long as temperatures of the metal do not exceed "to hot to touch". A better option is to use a very thin tile underlayment that is installed with its own multi-purpose Glue (+ - $75) that guaranties a better bond for your tiles. "To hot to touch still applies". I designed this system and I know it will work. The two part system, Fabric and Glue, is enough to cover 100 sq ft. If you have some other tiling projects in mind, like Ceramic or Granite Tiles over Formica Kitchen Counter Tops, or tiling over old tile in a bathroom, you would have plenty left over. The Underlayment System is Tavy "Thin-Skin" which you can view in the right margin of this forum page. www.tavytools.com for sources under distributors. If you choose to use this underlayment, please allow the glued fabric to dry a couple of hours before the "skim coating" step with "modified" thin-set mortar. I have also tiled over cook top range hoods with great success. Armen Tavy

mastic

I have none at this time. I have gone to their web site and viewed their product. It snaps together, creates uniform size grout joints that are built into the system and can be grouted in the normal fashion. They also claim it is self-leveling, however, There is a disclaimer if the subfloor is not flat enough, 1/4" in 10 feet. Since most floors are not "flat", the high spots must be sanded or ground or the low spots have to be filled. This preperation must be done or the tiles will rock on the floor and grout will crack. The tabs around the tiles will get in the way and installers will have to re-train themselves. New products are great and if the work it is a plus for our Industry. I saw no reviews positive or negative on "Google" and only time will tell if it will really work. The larger the format of a tile, as in 16, 18 and 20 inches, the flatter the floor must be, or the thicker the mortar must be, but that's not what mortar is for. The first thing we learn is not to depend on thin-set mortar to level tiles; level the floor before you start tiling.

The next time you go to an airport that has simulated terrazzo floors, gaze down a long span and see how the light reflects the humps in the floor.That is what most floors look like. It's like small swells in the Ocean. An option would be to level the floor with a self-leveling compound. If they send me some samples, I would be glad to test their product  and comment. Every new system needs the "test of time" before installers, professional or otherwise, will put their stamp of approval on it. If it works like they claim, go for it if you are confident that their claims are true. The slightest movement in a floor system can cause grout to crack.     “Edge Flooring” was supposed to be the "answer" to all the problems, but it did not fair well after there were too many installation issues, job failures and law suits. Armen Tavy

Yes it is possible. Review these 4 older posts,  # 12353, 11784, 11624, and 11438; all asked a similar question. If you enter those following post numbers in the "Get by ID" box, you can review some of the many options and methods. They will come up in the Search box as well if you type in "Tile over Tile". If the information you find is not enough, please ask again. Armen Tavy

By tiling over again. Just kidding, but I really do not have a great answer for you other than time and patience. The metal tiles are hopeless unless you are very careful with plastic instruments that hopefully won't leave marks. The ceramic tile grooves may come clean scrubbing with Sulfamic Acid Crystals diluted in water. However, you must avoid touching the metal tiles with the acid. The acid is available in most large tile stores. It's a "Tile Thing".  When scrapping always use hot or warm water. Toothpaste can help lubricate the area as you work. I am also assuming this is non-sanded grout. Maticulous grout washing of irregular surfaces is prudent soon after grout has set, and never more than an hour later and half the time in many cases. And you should not have waited this long to find a remedy. Armen Tavy

You pick them up and install one at a time. And don't think you are the only one. I always say, "It only hurts for a little while and we get over it". Armen Tavy

Additional weight in such small areas would be insignificant. Even if the areas were double in size the weight load would be dispersed over a large area. Maybe not for your concern but others can look at their second floors and make a sketch of the floor plan and then check downstairs to see if load bearing walls on the first floor are in strategic locations that would support additional loads upstairs. Tile floors in upstairs locations are usually in bathrooms and extra load weights in these rooms are usually taken into consideration by the architect who designed the home/s. Armen Tavy